Hey Everyone, Happy Tuesday I’m just back from Atlanta where I taught workshops for the wonderful ladies of the Atlanta ASG. We had a super fun weekend! It was the perfect combination of fitting jean muslins and getting creative with our old jeans while designing new skirts! I want to thank Julie, chapter president, for being the perfect hostess, and to everyone for making me feel right at home. So, today is Quick Tip Tuesday and my husband is off on a shoot with all of his (my) equipment. I went upstairs to shoot a video and when the single light (that was left in the room) flicked on, it was leaning against the wall because the light stand was at my husband’s shoot…along with the camera and a few other essential things like the microphones.
Between you and me I’m a little tired today …so I didn’t have the strength to shoot my QT with my iphone. But, I could take a photo with it! One of the most popular questions I get when I’m teaching fitting workshops is “How to I transfer these adjustments to my pattern pieces?” Happily, in some cases you don’t have to. If you have made a lot of changes to your fit muslin, it may be easier to use the muslin itself as the new pattern pieces.
Specifically if you’re working with a jean muslin and you needed to take in the back waistband and yoke, it’s easier to use the muslin pieces to create new (adjusted) pattern pieces. Here’s how to work with the back yoke.
When you’re fitting the back waistband and yoke, the excess fabric is taken out by sewing darts from the top of the waistband to the bottom edge of the back yoke. Below is a photo showing a waistband/yoke that has been fitted.
The first step is to use a seam ripper and remove the waistband. You will be able to use the fitted waistband to make a new pattern piece too (I’m working with the yoke in this tutorial because it’s a smaller piece, making it easier to photograph… but the process would be the same for the waistband.)
After the waistband is removed, cut the back yoke out of the muslin. Yes, literally take a pair of scissors and cut out the back yoke. Cut right along the stitching line along the side, lower edge and center back edges. Then trim off the 1/2″ seam allowance along the waistline edge. Press the darts flat and pin it to a piece of pattern paper.
Then trace around the edges of the yoke. I like to use my French Curve.
After you trace, you can fine-tune the shape of the yoke by smoothing out the curved edges. Mark the Center Back (CB) and the side seam edge (S).
Finally add the seam allowances back on… and you have a new fitted back yoke pattern piece
Notice that I marked what the seam allowances are. I also recommend labeling the pattern piece and adding the date you worked on it. ….Hoping for my studio to be back in commission for Thursday’s Quick Tip!
Please let me know if you have questions. Happy Day.