I finished the front pockets… After spending a day and fighting with my machine to get a good stitch using YLI Jean Stitch Thread. My straight stitch machine wasn’t having it… I kept getting skipped stitches and frayed thread :( But, I did get a nice stitch by using a size 14 Topstitch needle and hiking up the needle tension to 6. I also used the dual feed on my Pfaff… I think the dual feed really helped… so if you’re having trouble with topstitching thread and you have the right needle, tension and stitch length (I used 4.0 mm)–Try using a walking foot (if you don’t have a Pfaff).
Let’s get a creative with our Topstitching by sitching off the edge of the front pocket… What I mean by that is Not following the edge of the front pocket opening as you stitch. Topstitching adds a ton of personality and character to your jeans, so before you stitch a double row of evenly spaced lines that echo the front pocket opening, think about changing the curve.
I’m going to treat the front pockets of my Japanese denim jeans some designer details. Here I’m using my French curve to draw the start and finish curve. (This is just one example of how you can add shape to your topstitching) I don’t have to draw the entire design because as I reach the front pocket opening, I’ll topstitch along the edge evenly until I reach the base of the finishing curve at the waistline edge. Note: If you want to stitch evenly along the front pocket opening between the two curved guidelines it important that the curved lines end an equal distance from the front pocket opening. For example, if you are going to stitch 1/4″ away from the pocket edge, both curved guidelines must end 1/4″ away from the pocket opening.
If you create a unique topstitch detail on one pocket… You need to mirror image the design for the other pocket opening… Here’s an easy way to do that. Use a Chalk-O-Liner to darken the curved guidelines. Then position the other front leg right sides together…Aligning the front pocket openings. If you rub the wrong side of the fabric… (Or I like to smack it with my hand) the chalk guideline will be visible on the opposite leg.
Here’s how it looks. Use the Chalk-O-Liner to darken in the guideline.
How to create a smooth transition from the curved guideline to stitching along the edge of the front pocket opening.
Because I didn’t draw a guideline all the way across the front pocket opening, I am going to use the side of my presser foot… and the needle position to ensure that I make a smooth transition from the curve to the edge of the pocket opening.
Before you start topstitching, position the presser foot at the end of the curved line so that the side of the foot is aligned with the first row of topstitching. Then move the needle position over until it is directly on the chalk guideline.
Then (without adjusting the position of the needle) start topstitching at the side seam edge of the pocket. Topstitch directly on the chalk guideline.
When you get to the end of the curved guideline, the side of the presser foot will be aligned with the first row of topstitching. Use the side of the presser foot as a guide to continue topstitching evenly along the edge of the front pocket opening until you get to the base of the curved guideline near the waistline edge. You will be able to smoothly transition from the pocket edge on to the curved guideline.
Here’s how the pocket opening looks when the topstitching is complete.