My Grandpa’s Honorable Discharge Paper from the Army
Happy Veteran’s Day. I was thinking about my grandpa as I worked on my jeans this morning. He served in the Army during World War II… when it came time to add buttons to my J Jeans, I decided to search my stash for metal military style buttons instead of tradition jean tac buttons. I found four metal military style buttons that were my grandpa’s–From an old coat, not his uniform. Perfect for my jeans… Something to remember my grandpa by.
Metal metal military style buttons
Before we get to my Grandpa’s buttons, let me show you how to place and sew on back jean pockets with flaps.
The first step is to decided they are going to look attractive and enhance your back view. Pin them on and try your jeans on to fine-tune the position of them. It helps if you can ask a sewing friend (or you husband) how your butt looks
My flaps look good when they are spaced approximately 2″ from the center of the topstitching along the back crotch seam.
Tip: Don’t use the actual seam to center your pockets… the topstitching will make them look unevenly spaced. Instead measure from the center of the topstitching…. even though they will actually be a little uneven, they will look even…trick of the eye!
In addition to centering the pockets, you want to play with the angle that you place them. My pockets look better if they are slightly straighter across my butt than the back yoke seam. You can see that the top inside corner of the guideline is 3/4″ from the back yoke…and the outer corner is 1 1/4″ away. Definitely take a minute to check this, sometimes pockets look better if they are parallel to the back yoke seam (they may need to be higher or lower too).
My flaps are already constructed and I’ve pressed the top edge under 1/2″. Line the folded edge of the top of the flap with the guideline. Flip the pocket up and pin the fold along the guideline.
Then sew the flat to the back leg along the guideline. Before you start stitching check to make sure that you’re not catching the front leg into the stitching.
When the flap is topstitched in place, the raw edges will be encased in the stitching. Trim the 1/2″ seam allowance to 1/8″.
Press the flap down. Here’s a peek underneath…You can see that the seam allowance is very short and it will be easy to encase into the topstitching.
Here’s how the flap looks after it’s been anchored in place with topstitching. You can see that I stitched close to the folded top edge of the flap, and then about 1/2″ away too. I was trying to be consistent with the topstitching detail around the edge of the flap.
Here’s what the underside of the flap looks like after it’s been topstitched in place. While I have the flap up, I’m going to draw a guideline to position the top edge of the back pocket. I like my pockets to be pretty close the base of the flap. In this case, I drew a line 1/4″ away from the base of the flap.
The next step is to position the back pocket under the flap, along the guideline. Pin in place and lay the flap down to make sure that they are properly aligned with each other. Then topstitch the back pocket in place. Note how my back pocket design looks before it’s topstitched in place…
And, how it looks different now that I’ve added topstitching to attach it to the back leg. This is a good example of how topstitching really adds a lot of character to your jeans.
Here’s how the pocket looks when the flap is laying down. Notice, I did not sew a button onto the back pocket before I topstitched it into place. I’ve decided to sew the button directly into the buttonhole in the flap instead. I’m doing this because I never button my back pockets… So, I’m not going to take the time to make sure the button is position on the pocket perfectly so that it lines up with the buttonhole on the flap Quick and easy!!
In the front I added a button on the flap of the coin pocket (again, I attached it right to the flap). But, don’t worry, I can keep my jeans closed, the button on the waistband is fully functional!