Ok, I’m going to take some time with these jeans… a luxury that I normally do not have in a class setting. I want to really see what happens when I make a single adjustment. So, I’m going to be 44 years old next month (yikes!!) I bring this up because my shape is… different from when I first fitted this pattern to me. I’m going to start again… using a recent Khaki Pants draft as a guide. I tried on the size 14 muslin for the jeans — sewn right out of the envelope with no adjustments. Here’s what the back view looks like… Diagonal wrinkles are always a problem because it’s not as simple as “it’s too tight”
1. The back leg of the khaki pants pattern was wider across by about 3/4″
2. The back crotch curve of the khaki pants was scooped out to make more sitting room compared to the jeans back crotch….
I know the diagonal wrinkles are not being caused by the fact that the jean pattern is too tight…. so, lets deal with discrepancy no. 2 first. I’m going to shift the top of the back leg, above the crotch curve, over towards the side seam. This will create a similar curve to the back crotch curve on the khaki pants. In this case, I’m going to shift the top of the leg over 1/2″ as shown below.
Then, I’m going to redraw the crotch curve to match the new position of the top portion of the back crotch.
That’s the only adjustment I’m going to do. I know that the size 14 is too tight, I can’t pull it up all the way… But I want to see what shifting the top leg over towards the side seam does for me… Here’s what my back view looks like in the adjusted muslin (size 14 with the single adjustment). The diagonal wrinkles are gone… So, shifting the fabric from the back crotch curve toward the side seam helped with the diagonal wrinkles by making more room inside for my butt. But this adjustment did not fix the fact that the back leg pattern piece is not wide enough…
1. The back crotch point and inseam need to be extended to make more room in the inner thigh area… and I need a little more room in the hip… We’ll tackle this problem next!