Jeans for Jennifer… Fitting Issue No. 1 Diagonal wrinkles across the back leg under the butt!

Hey everyone,

Ok, I’m going to take some time with these jeans… a luxury that I normally do not have in a class setting.   I want to really see what happens when I make a single adjustment.    So, I’m going to be 44 years old next month (yikes!!)   I bring this up because my shape is… different from when I first fitted this pattern to me.  I’m going to start again… using a recent Khaki Pants draft as a guide.    I tried on the size 14 muslin for the jeans — sewn right out of the envelope with no adjustments.  Here’s what the back view looks like…  Diagonal wrinkles are always a problem because it’s not as simple as “it’s too tight”

To start, I’m going to compare the back leg of the jeans (size 14) to the adjusted back leg of the Khaki Pants pattern that I adjusted to fit me this past summer.  There a two things that I noticed.

1.  The back leg of the khaki pants pattern was wider across by about 3/4″

2. The back crotch curve of the khaki pants was scooped out to make more sitting room compared to the jeans back crotch….

I know the diagonal wrinkles are not being caused by the fact that the jean pattern is too tight…. so, lets deal with discrepancy no. 2 first.   I’m going to shift the top of the back leg, above the crotch curve, over towards the side seam.  This will create a similar curve to the back crotch curve on the khaki pants.  In this case, I’m going to shift the top of the leg over 1/2″ as shown below.

 

Then, I’m going to redraw the crotch curve to match the new position of the top portion of the back crotch.

and… blend the new position of the side seam to the knee…

That’s the only adjustment I’m going to do.  I know that the size 14 is too tight, I can’t pull it up all the way…  But I want to see what shifting the top leg over towards the side seam does for me… Here’s what my back view looks like in the adjusted muslin (size 14 with the single adjustment).   The diagonal wrinkles are gone…   So, shifting the fabric from the back crotch curve toward the side seam helped with the diagonal wrinkles by making more room inside for my butt.   But this adjustment did not fix the fact that the back leg pattern piece is not wide enough…

Based on the comparison between the original jean pattern to the khaki pants pattern that I adjusted to fit… I’m taking an educated guess as to what’s causing the remaining wrinkles.

1.  The back crotch point and inseam need to be extended to make more room in the inner thigh area… and I need a little more room in the hip…  We’ll tackle this problem next!

 

 

 

One comment

  1. Bert Kelley says:

    Hi,
    Thank you SO MUCH for the fitting help..with pants…I have been trying to make pants fit me right for years!!!
    I have the fit problem narrowed down to the fact that I have a flat butt with big thighs and a smaller waist, sometimes I give up even trying to fit and wear stretch pants…in XL. Maybe you can discover the secrets of pant fitting. Thanks Again

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