Debut of the Perfectly Fitted Shirt!Posted by Jennifer Stern on Feb 5, 2013 in Posts by Subject, Workshops | 2 comments
Freshly back from teaching the debut of The Perfectly Fitted Shirt in Berlin MA for the ASDP. It was amazing, the group of ladies that I worked with were talented, fun and proud owners of newly fitted torso slopers!! We started the day trying on fit muslins so everyone could start with the best cup size. After evaluating the fit of each muslin, the pattern alterations began. The pace of the class was nice, everyone worked at their own speed. We started by doing the vertical adjustments… getting all the curves and darts into the right places. If the bust dart was too low, there are three ways to get it up in the right place… (yup it happens with this pattern, because I drafted it with a lowered dart position that’s more reasonable for most! In some cases shortening the armhole was enough to bring up the dart. If the armhole length did not need to be shortened, the excess length could also be taken out under the arm but above the dart. If the amount that the bust dart needed to be moved was more than 1/2″, then a more “invasive” technique was necessary–The dart was cut out and slid up into position. This is a great technique because it does not affect the overall length of the side seam!
After lunch some of the ladies were ready to sew their customized muslin together, here’s a look at one of them. Front view:
…and the back view. The side and shoulder seams, cf and cb seam allowances are all a generous 3/4″. You can see the cb seam allowances pressed open along the back of this muslin.