Thanks to everyone who ordered my new pattern! (I have to admit, folding it up and fitting it into an envelope is almost an Olympic sport, the pattern sheet is soooo big …I’m off to New Hampshire this weekend to teach Jean Fit Workshop and Profession Construction Techniques for the Sewing Tree. Super excited because my Mom is going with me…we are going to make a weekend of it!
When I get back from The Sewing Tree, I have three short weeks before I leave for St. Louis to teach the Ribbon Skirt Workshop. I love this workshop because there are so many design options. My goal for this workshop is to give everyone the opportunity to leave with fitting information for a knit Ribbon Skirt and a woven fabric (cut on the bias) skirt. Today I worked on a full set of knit muslins in sizes 6-20!
… The great thing about working with knit is that it’s very forgiving and easy to fit! I cut the knit muslins on the bias too, because even though the knit stretches across the crossgrain, the 45° angle is so much more interesting!! As I worked on my muslins, I collected a few tips that I want to share with you!
I want to talk about the selvage edges. First, the basic info… The selvage runs along the lengthwise grain. This is the edge that’s as long as the amount of yards of fabric you purchased. The selvage is used as a guide to make sure that you are positioning fabric straight on the grain (or in the case of bias, an accurate 45° angle from the selvage!) Pattern pieces that are cut on the straight of grain should be positioned on the fabric so that the printed grainline on the pattern piece is parallel to the selvage edge. An easy way to tell if you’re straight is to measure the distance between the printed grainline and the selvage at both ends of the pattern piece… They should be equal! The selvages are woven really tightly woven and sometimes they can cause the fabric to pucker along the edges. Here’s a close-up picture of the fabric I was working with to make my knit muslins… notice how the fabric close to the selvage edge puckers.
This can make it hard to cut pattern pieces out accurately… especially when you’re trying to cut along the bias grainline. It’s also interesting to note that the fabric curls to the wrong side of this fabric… That’s helpful to know when you’re trying to decide how to finish a hem or neckline!
If you trim off the selvage edge, the fabric will lay flat! (Much easier to cut accurately on the grainline!