Wonderful Jean Fit Workshop at the Wonderful Sewing Tree in NH! + Prominent Thigh Adjustment

Hey Everyone, I’m freshly back from a weekend at the Sewing Tree in NH.  It was such a nice trip.  I took my mom with me… We took our time driving up on Friday… making a few quick stops along the way.  We arrived at the Sewing Tree, in Dover New Hampshire around 4:3o pm.  I was greeted by Janith Bergeron, one of the owners.  We got set up and settled for the workshop on Saturday… Then we went out to dinner with Janith and her friend  Kathy, who had come for the workshop.  After a yummy bowl of macaroni and cheese, it was off to the hotel… I think my mom and I were sleeping by 9:00!

It’s rare that I get to work with such a small group… 8 registered participants, Janith and her partner, Christine.  It was  amazing.  We got all the muslins fitted before lunch.  After lunch we worked on the custom muslins… Many of the ladies were achieving a great fit in record time.

During the afternoon, I worked on a specific body type challenge… Prominent inner thighs.  Women with curvy figures  have a  variety of silhouettes.  Legs can have full inner thighs, outer thighs or both.     Barbara, one of the ladies in the class has had gastric bypass surgery and lost over 100 pounds.  As a result (she looked wonderful!) …  Barbara explained to me that when you have this type of surgery… and dramatic weight loss, you can end up having pockets of loose skin.  In Barbara’s case, this happened along the inside of her thighs.  Here’s a close-up view.

One way to adjust the pattern to fix this is the same  adjustment I illustrated in a post I did last week (inward rotating knees.) If you missed this post, check it out for the details on how to adjust the pattern.  Essentially it’s necessary to move fabric over toward the inner thigh and take it away from the side seam. (The total measurement stays the same.)   So, I slashed the pattern at knee level and shifted it toward the inner thigh… adding 1 1/2″ along the inseam and taking it away from the side seam.  here’s the muslin before making this adjustment.  You can see that there is enough ease… but the muslin is hanging up along the inner thigh.  In addition to causing lots of wrinkles along the back leg, this causes the muslin to not hang straight below the knee.

After shifting the pattern toward the inner thigh, here’s what the back of the muslin looks like.

… When I first looked at this picture, I was surprised at the amount of wrinkles that showed up.  When I looked at the muslin, many of the wrinkles you see in the picture were not obvious.   Still, you can see that there are is an improvement.  There are less wrinkles, and the muslin is closer to hanging straight.

… In addition to all of this pattern fun, I picked up a couple of really cool sewing notions that Janith and Christine had at the Sewing Tree.  As you may have seen in some of my pattern adjustment posts, I have wonderful “Armani” leucite bars that I use as pattern weights.  They are perfect for big projects.  … But when I use them for smaller pattern pieces, I have to slide them around to cut.  Well, I’m happy to say that problem is solved!  I got this really nice solid brass pattern weights… Packaged in Altoids tins.  They are surprisingly heavy…

…and they have felt on the bottom so they won’t slip!

And, last but not least, I also got a beautiful seam ripper and matching awl.  They have wood handles… that are carved from a block of dyed birch laminate.  And, it’s not just beautiful… The blade is very sharp… and if it ever gets dull, I can sent it back to get the blade replaced!!   LOVE it!  (I had a little photoshop fun with this pic… so you could see all the colors in the wood!)

 

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