Teaching Perfectly Fitted Shirt for the CT ASG Next WeekendPosted by Jennifer Stern on Apr 18, 2013 in Workshops | 358 comments
….If you were wondering, my new trunk made safely back from St. Louis! Getting ready to teach for my local ASG… So excited!! Connecticut may be a small state, but there are a lot of talented ladies living here :) I’m busy putting the finishing touches on the Perfectly Fitted Shirt Workbook and, of course, I’m making a cool shirt to wear! Last night my good friend Eric came over for a visit. It was so nice to see him. We caught up on what’s been going on… then I couldn’t help but pick his brain on some of my ongoing fitting/drafting projects.
One thing that I’m working on is reducing the amount a shirt pulls up when you raise your arm… Last week, Marie and I were working together to get the perfect fit for our shirt muslins. After fitting the bust and shoulder, I started to effervescing about how much the shirt pulled up when Marie raised her arm. I had her scoop out the front armhole curve, fill it in… and a few other things that ended up having NO effect on the overall look of the shirt when her arm was raised…
So, I showed my pattern and the photo to Eric. He had a solution that I have not tried yet. Instead of adjusting the shape of the armhole, he showed me how to adjust the shape of the ”wings” of the sleeve. … Yup, I’m learning new terminology too. Wings are the side edges of the sleeve where the sleeve cap and the underarm edge meet. I’ve circled the wings in the illustration below.
To show me how to adjust the sleeve, we worked with my fitted muslin and pattern. Basically, to make more range of motion, Eric added to the length of the underarm seam, and filled in the wings like this.
I’m excited to try this… but sadly, I don’t think there is a perfect answer. Eric explained to me that it’s a choice between the look of the shirt vs. the range of motion you need while wearing your shirt. Essentially, the fabric that’s added to the sleeve will be visible when your arms are not raised. …So if your priority is a great looking fitted shirt… range of motion will be limited. …. That being said, while my shirt lifts up a little… it’s still comfortable to wear!
Stay tuned for some before and after shots using this pattern adjustment!! Happy Day, Jen