Perfectly Fitted Shirts In Connecticut!Posted by Jennifer Stern on Apr 30, 2013 in Workshops | 998 comments
Hey Everyone, Hope everyone had a great weekend… like I did! I spent the weekend with the CT ASG teaching the Perfectly Fitted Workshop… by the Cupful! I want to take a minute to thank Ruthe, Barbara (our gracious hostess) and all the ladies who attended this workshop… They really did a nice job with their patterns, it was a fun day!
I started the class by showing them what I’ve been sharing we you… the progress of getting my own muslin to fit me properly. Then the ladies started trying on muslins. When everyone had a good starting size, I evaluated the fit of each muslin and filled out a customized fit worksheet.
When everyone had a plan of action, we started adjusting patterns. Some of the common adjustments involved changing the slope and length of the shoulder seam and raising the fullness of the bust. When all the adjustments were completed, we used the adjusted pattern to cut out a custom fit muslin. It’s interesting to note that due to an error in ordering, I did not have my shirt-weight muslin… so we used the heavy weight muslin (that I use in the jeans workshop) to make the fit muslins in this class.
Here are my thoughts about using heavy muslin to fit a torso sloper. Because of the weight of the fabric, and the fact that it has zero give and drape, it amplified every wrinkle. This made it easy to see fitting challenges! … On the flip side, it was a little more difficult gathering and setting in the sleeve.
and the back….
We addressed wrinkles, adjusting the custom fit muslins before setting in the sleeve. To gather up the sleeve cap I recommended stitching two rows of gathering stitches…. one 1\4″ from the edge of the sleeve cap and a second 3/4″ from the edge. This way, there is a row of gathering stitches holding the gathers perpendicular to the seam allowance… making it easy to stitch over the gathers smoothly. …Here’s a sleeve that’s been set-in… You can see the gathering stitches on either side of the seam.
The goal at the end of the workshop was to have a pattern that’s ready to go in fashion fabric….I’m happy to report that we had success all around! Here’s Barbara, the owner of Barbara’s Sewing Studio, sporting her perfectly fitted shirt!
…btw, if you’re local to CT, and you’re looking for a great place to hold a sewing class, Barbara Deane’s Sewing Studio is a really nice space to hold a class…. And, If you’re looking for someone to help with fitting a gown or dress, definitely give Barbara a call!!!
…If anyone has been wondering, I still love jeans too… My next post, is spotlighting one of my students on Patternreview… Carol made a wonderful pair of jeans that fit great… I asked her if I could share her success with you. She emailed me some great pics… stay tuned~~