Great Fitting Jeans on PatternReviewPosted by Jennifer Stern on Jun 17, 2013 in Posts by Subject, Workshops | 286 comments
Hey Everyone, I have so much going on! I’m almost finished cleaning out my studio so I can transform it into a set to shoot my design videos!! I’m also busy making new jean samples for an upcoming article… and of course, new perfectly fitted shirts are also on my short list… You’ll get a peek at all this upcoming stuff soon…including a shirt made by one of the students in a recent perfectly fitted shirt workshop! But first, I want to share some jeans made by one of my pattern review students!
Carol was so kind to send me pics of her jeans… and the process of making them. Recently, she signed up for Blue Prints to Blue Jeans. This class has an extensive pdf lesson… and lots of videos to guide student through the process of adjusting, constructing and finishing a pair of jeans. Even through I can’t be right in the room with students, there is a lively class message board where pictures of progress and questions can be posted. I’m excited that it gives women the opportunity to take a class in the comfort of their own home! I have a lot of fun working with women from all over the world. This unique experience is very inspiring to me because of the diverse creativity…
The message board becomes the classroom where the students interact with me by asking questions and sharing photos of their projects. I interact with them by answering their questions and posting photos. The students also have the opportunity to interact with each other… inspiring and encouraging each other… I love it.
Here’s Carol’s back view.
…Let’s rewind back a little bit. Here is one of Carol’s first muslins.
In order to get the front of the muslin to fit better, we made room in the tummy, and shortened the front crotch length right above the curve. These two adjustments got rid of most of the wrinkles pulling from the CF in the pic above.
To pull up the front crotch curve, so that it’s positioned where you are, pleat out the excess amount of vertical length at the CF. Create a horizontal dart from the CF to the side seam…. gradually pleat out less and less until you are pleating out zero at side seam. For example, if you need to raise the front crotch 1″… pin out 1/2″ pleat at CF and progress to 0 at the side seams. To test this adjustment, sew along the pins to create a horizontal dart. If it doesn’t improve the look of your fit muslin, you can take it out… you can also adjust how much you are taking out.
If your fit muslin is tight across your tummy, you can let the side seams out a little bit. You can also add a small about of room (no more than 1/2″) to the CF edge. In addition to adding width, you can add some length as shown below. This adjustment adds ease to the center front where you may need it…. Use it in combination with adjusting the side edges. (The red area is what was added to the original pattern. I usually cut off the zipper seam allowance before making this adjustment. Then I add the zipper seam allowance back on at the end after all the adjustments have been made.)
If you have questions about any of this, please post a comment or shoot me an email. …. Next up…. The Fitted Shirt! I’ll show you how I matched the printed pattern on one of the beautiful fabrics I got from Sawyerbrook.com …(if you click on the link, you can peek at the fabric!!) and see some shirt made by some of my students! (They did such a great job, very inspiring!) Stay tuned.