Hi Everyone… hope you’re all staying warm (I’m almost never cold…and I’m cold!) I had the opportunity to work on some really interesting wrinkles in jean fit class this week.
We were working with my jeans patterns, and I have to admit, this is the first time I’ve ever seen this type of wrinkle. Usually wrinkles radiating from the center seam are in the front crotch area, not in the back. After spending some time thinking about it… and playing with the fabric, I decided to try to pin out the excess.
As I pinned out the excess fabric along a diagonal line, I noticed that the side and inseams remained straight, and nothing else was pulled out of whack. So I had this student sew along the pins and try her muslin on right side out so we could see if it fixed the problem.
The first step is to determine the position of the excess fabric. Measure from the top of the back leg at the cb crotch to the dart the intersects the back crotch seam. Then measure down along the side edge to the end point of the pinned dart. Make sure to add the seam allowance to your measurements. In the case above, there is a 3/4″ seam allowance at the top of the back leg.
On your back leg pattern piece, measure down from the top to the position of the start and end of the diagonal dart. Measure down along the side edge and the center back edge. Then draw a line from the Crotch to the side edge as shown.
Create a diagonal dart. Start by measuring how much fabric is pinned out at the crotch. Mark half the total fabric taken out above and below the center guideline. Then draw the dart legs as shown above.
Finally, slash the top dart leg from the crotch to, but not through the side edge. Then slide the top portion of the pattern down so that the cut edge is aligned with the bottom dart leg. Tape in place.
…How to tell if you should use this adjustment. If you pin out the excess fabric, it should not cause the crotch length to become too short. It should just be taking up the excess fabric. If the back crotch feels too short after pinning out the excess, you possibly took out too much. Another possibility is that the dart should be going in the opposite direction (0 at the cb).